Picking a "Workhorse": How To Choose A Fountain Pen for an Everyday Writer

September 28, 2019

By far the most common question I receive from readers, as well as other people in my everyday life who know that I love pens, is how to choose a fountain pen to use as an everyday writer. Sometimes, they even specify that this will be the only pen they plan to own/use! I basically write for a living, both here and at my day job, so I don’t take this question lightly and it’s also a difficult question to answer, because so much depends on personal preference, not to mention financial circumstances. The truth is that there are a variety of excellent options if what you are looking to do with the fountain pen is actually write. The best choice for you, however, depends upon your particular preferences and circumstances. This post offers my thoughts on different factors you should consider when selecting a pen you plan to use every day.

First, Budget

Be honest with yourself, and don’t feel pressure to stretch financially, because in today’s fountain pen market there are going to be viable options at any price point, even on the extreme low end of the pricing scale. If you are willing to spend as little as $25 you can purchase a reliable pen and avoid serious quality control issues. In any event, even if you have more flexibility, I would think hard before spending more than $200, since using a pen as a daily writer does bring with it the increased risk of loss, theft, and damage.

PenBBS has absolutely blown me away this year. You don’t need to spend a lot of money to get a reliable writer that holds a ton of ink.

Filling System

From the perspective of a writer, a fountain pen’s filling system is more important than many people make it out to be. If I’m busy at work, I can burn through a cartridge or a converter in an afternoon. If I’m in a place where I can’t refill, or don’t want to carry multiple pens, I need a pen that holds a lot of ink. My personal preference is a piston or vacuum filler, since these hold significantly more ink than a converter. Eyedroppers are another option, but for daily use I would highly recommend a Japanese-style eyedropper that uses a valve to prevent ink spilling or burping into the cap when the pen is not in use, especially if the pen will be carried in a briefcase, backpack, handbag, etc. where it’s going to get jostled around.

For those who don’t write a dozen pages or more a day, a cartridge-converter pen should work perfectly well for daily use, and you may find it more convenient to have the cartridge option if the pen runs out of ink at work. Just be aware that many brands (specifically Pilot, Sailor, Aurora, Lamy, and Platinum) take proprietary cartridges, so you will be limited to cartridges and ink colors made by that specific brand, unless you want to refill the cartridges yourself using a syringe or bottle-fill from the converter.

Piston fillers or cartridge-converters? Again, you have multiple options, and the best choice for a daily writer depends on how often you need to refill, and the most convenient option for refilling on the go. From left, the Pilot Custom 74, Lamy 20… — Piston fillers or cartridge-converters? Again, you have multiple options, and the best choice for a daily writer depends on how often you need to refill, and the most convenient option for refilling on the go. From left, the Pilot Custom 74, Lamy 2000, and Pilot Custom Heritage.

Weight and Balance

Once you’ve narrowed your budget and decided what type of filling system you want, the most important consideration becomes how the pen feels in your hand. Remember, you’re going to write with this thing every day, so while looks are important, comfort is key. Two of the most important things I look for in a pen are weight and balance. The two concepts are related, but distinct. By weight, I’m referring to how heavy the pen is. Certain types of pens (particularly metal pens made of copper, stainless steel, or brass) are better suited, in my opinion, for shorter notes and pocket carry, because their heft can make your hand quite tired after several pages. There are exceptions, but I’m dealing in general rules-of-thumb today.

I’ve tried a lot of pens, and none feel better in my hand than the Lamy 2000, which is made of Makrolon, a type of polycarbonate. It’s quite lightweight.

Balance is a different issue, and relates to where the weight of the pen sits. Do you post your pens, like me? If so, make sure that the cap isn’t too heavy because it will back-weight the pen and make writing awkward, even if the pen isn’t that heavy overall. Front-weighted pens (i.e., those with metal sections), typically don’t pose the same problem, since many people, myself included, prefer a pen in which the weight is shifted to the front, which keeps the nib on the paper and offers an additional degree of control over your handwriting. Because weight and balance are such a key consideration, it’s important to be able to either hold a pen in person prior to purchasing, or purchase from an online retailer that permits returns, especially if you’re shelling out a lot of money for a higher-end pen.

Nib Choice

Is the nib the most important part of the fountain pen? Yes and no. If you have a pen that feels great in your hand, but has a crummy nib, the pen isn’t usable, so the nib IS important. However, a bad nib can usually be improved through tuning and/or smoothing. On certain models of pens (TWSBI, Pelikan, Kaweco, among others) you can even switch out the nib and substitute one that’s a different size or even a specialty grind. For that reason, I tend to prioritize the weight, balance, and overall “feel” of a pen over the nib. Unless the nib is absolutely god-awful, it can be adjusted. The size and heft of the pen can’t.

I’ve had great experiences with the nibs on the Leonardo Momento Zero. They’re nothing fancy, but all of mine have arrived well-tuned and they certainly get the job done.

With respect to nibs, what’s most important is choosing the right type of nib for the work you want to do. If you write very small, and your day job (like mine) involves annotating or marking up documents that are often printed on the cheapest recycled paper available, you will likely want to choose something in the extra-fine to medium range and be particular about which inks you use. Those with larger handwriting, and who don’t need to write on cheap paper, have more flexibility to go with a broader nib or even a stub as their daily driver. Unless your day job involves calligraphy, however, I generally advise people to avoid super “soft” or “flex” nibs for everyday writing, as they tend to write far too wet.

Recommendations

Hopefully this short guide is helpful. Readers of this blog won’t be surprised to know that after considering all of the factors above, my own preferred “workhorse” pen is the Lamy 2000. I have several of them, and in addition to the fountain pen regularly carry the rollerball, ballpoint, and 4 Color Ballpoint (multi pen). From a fountain pen perspective, I love the Lamy 2000 because (1) it’s perfectly balanced for my hand; (2) it holds a lot of ink; and (3) I love both the way the hooded nib writes AND how it “disappears” in a crowded meeting room, where you don’t want to be that guy writing with a distracting fountain pen.

When I find a pen model I like, I go all out. Hence my collections of Lamy 2000s and Leonardo Momento Zeroes (pictured here)!

But what works for me may not - and in fact, probably won’t - work for you! While I maintain an annually updated list of pen recommendations, I’ve never published a “ranked” list of “Workhorse” fountain pens because the criteria are so subjective. I won’t rank pens here either, but I will provide several suggestions within particular price brackets. Everything listed here is a pen that I enjoy using and either regularly carry or would have no issues doing so. Where possible, I’ve linked to my own reviews, and otherwise to a retailer I trust.

$20-$50:
- Platinum Plaisir. I’ve come to believe that the Plaisir might be the best “cheap” pen on the market, especially for one that you plan to use regularly.
- PenBBS 308 or PenBBS 309. The 308 is a cartridge-converter pen; the 309 is a piston filler. The time has come for PenBBS pens to start appearing on recommendation lists alongside TWSBIs. They’re that good.
- PenBBS 456. PenBBS’s vaccum-filling model, for around the price of a TWSBI Eco.
- Faber-Castell Essentio. Faber-Castell makes the best bargain-priced steel nibs on the market.
- TWSBI Eco. If people ask me for a TWSBI recommendation, I often recommend the Eco over the 580 because (1) it posts; and (2) it’s hard to beat the combination of price, availability, and reliability.
- Kaweco Sport (Standard). If you don’t mind a shorter “pocket pen,” Kaweco Sports are inexpensive, reliable, and come in a wide array of colors. If you prefer chrome trim, check out the “Skyline” model. You can also swap nibs.
$50-$100:
- Faber-Castell Loom. I prefer the Loom to the Essentio because it posts better. It’s only slightly more expensive and uses the same excellent nib.
- TWSBI 580. If you want a TWSBI that uses interchangeable nibs, opt for the 580 series. If you want a TWSBI with interchangeable nibs that posts, opt for the TWSBI Diamond Mini.
- Opus 88 Koloro or Opus 88 Picnic. The only eyedroppers I recommend, because they have the Japanese-style valve system that helps prevent “inkcidents.” Be aware that the Omar and “Demo” pens are very large.
$100-$200:
- Lamy 2000. See above. My personal workhorse.
- Pelikan M200/M205. Another relatively inexpensive piston filler, which comes in a wide array of different colors and patterns, including special and limited editions. Pelikan pens are reliable and will stand up to years of use.
- Leonardo Momento Zero. A recently released pen out of Italy, available in some exceptionally pretty materials. Lightweight and reliable writers.
- Pilot Custom 74. An underrated cartridge-converter pen with an exceptional nib. These pens don’t get nearly as much attention as they should. If you absolutely want a piston filler the Custom Heritage 92 is an option for more money.
- Platinum 3776 Century. A pen that attracts a lot of attention for the collectibility of the limited editions, but also excels as a daily writer. Platinum offers a wide range of nib options for this pen.
OK, I want to blow it out ($200+)
- Sailor Professional Gear (“Pro Gear”). My pick for a high-end cartridge converter pen. Sailor nibs are exceptional, and the Pro Gear is a well-balanced writing instrument, especially posted.
- Pilot Custom 823. A vacuum-filler that posts well and makes for an comfortable writer despite the larger size.
- Montblanc 146. Many people won’t carry a Montblanc because they find the branding pretentious. While I agree these pens have become a bit of a status symbol, they’re still great pens, hold a good amount of ink, and despite what people say, the standard Meisterstuck pens aren’t ostentatious.
- Pelikan M400, M600, or M800. Personally, I think the Pelikan M400 and M600 make better everyday writers because they are much lighter than the M800.
- Conid Bulkfiller. If you want the ultimate “ink tank” and cost is no object, get a Conid. Bulkfillers come in a wide array of shapes and sizes to suit any preference.

Again, I hope this is helpful! Please reach out through the comments or “Contact Me” link if you have any additional questions, or would like to share any additional information you take into account when choosing your daily writers.

Water and White Lightning: Fixing High Maintenance Inks

September 18, 2019

For years I avoided certain ink brands, namely Noodlers and Private Reserve, not because I actually believed those inks would destroy or “melt” pens, but because of batch inconsistency and the fact that many of the inks bled and feathered on all but the thickest coated paper. Others never dried, remaining tacky and subject to smearing for up to a week or more. I would get frustrated and give up, selling or giving away the bottles I had accumulated.

With nearly a decade in this hobby under my belt, I’m slightly more patient than I used to be, and writing this blog has provided me with the opportunity for experimentation. Noodlers makes a wide range of vibrant and unique colors, and most of the inks are so saturated with dye that you can add a couple drops of water or ink additive to improve the ink’s behavior without changing the color significantly or sacrificing vibrancy. The only caveat is that by diluting the ink, you run the risk of compromising special properties such as “bulletproofing” (permanence/water resistance) or quick-drying. I generally don’t purchase inks for these reasons, however, other than a couple water-resistant inks I keep in my collection, and I’ve found that most aren’t significantly affected by a drop of dilution.

Noodler’s Walnut has always been a favorite of mine, but I’ve had trouble with feathering and slow dry times if I use the ink undiluted. How did I fix it? Read on below.

So How Do I “Fix” Problematic Noodlers Inks?

I’ve found that certain Noodlers Inks that are prone to feathering, bleeding, and extremely slow dry times work better with 1-5 drops of water added to a 5ml sample vial. Inks such as Air Corps Blue Black and Walnut are great colors, but sometimes bleed, feather, and smear on cheaper paper, or take a long time to dry on fountain-pen friendly paper like Clairefontaine, Rhodia, or Tomoe River.

Writing Samples of Noodlers Walnut, Air Corps Blue Black, and Shah’s Rose, three colors that behave extremely well with a touch of water (Walnut, Air Corps) or a tiny drop of White Lightning (Shah’s Rose).

On the other hand, for inks that are too dry, I take the same amount of ink (5ml in a sample vial) and add a tiny drop of Vanness Pens “White Lightning” ink additive. You might remember a version of this product when it was sold by Organics Studio, under the moniker “Cuddles Flo Plus”, but Vanness acquired the formula after Organics Studio discontinued it and are now bottling the product directly. White Lightning is intended “for use in poor flowing or dry inks to increase flow consistency,” and the product really does work. I can’t emphasize enough, though, that you should use this product sparingly, and do not add directly to the bottle unless you are extremely sure of the amount. Use too much and you can turn a dry ink into the inverse: an ink that feathers, bleeds, and never dries. I’ve had success using White Lightning to improve the flow of drier Noodlers Inks such as basic Noodler’s Black, 54th Massachusetts, and Shah’s Rose. I’ve also spoken with other people who swear that White Lightning improves extremely dry inks such as certain Kyoto TAG inks, as well as Platinum’s “Classic” series of Iron Gall inks.

One of the great things about Noodlers is that the bottles come filled to the brim. (Just be careful opening them for the first time.) I’ve actually heard some people describe the full bottle, the super-saturation, and the need to dilute certain col… — One of the great things about Noodlers is that the bottles come filled to the brim. (Just be careful opening them for the first time.) I’ve actually heard some people describe the full bottle, the super-saturation, and the need to dilute certain colors as a “bonus,” because it makes the bottle last a very long time.

Takeaways and Where to Buy

Noodlers Ink is widely available from most pen retailers, and the bottles pictured here were supplied by site sponsor Pen Chalet. What I’ve discovered over the years is that Noodlers makes “tinkerer’s inks.” If you don’t mind playing around with the formulation, you can better enjoy the wide range of colors and properties that the brand has to offer. White Lightning Ink Additive can be purchased from our sponsor Vanness Pens, and is a product exclusive to them. This unique product really does work, and if you have a large ink collection that includes colors you love but can’t use due to how the inks themselves behave, consider experimenting with water dilution or additives to tailor the inks to your preference.

Disclaimer: The inks and ink additive were provided to me free of charge by my sponsors, for review purposes. Many thanks to Pen Chalet and Vanness Pens for making this review possible!

It's pen cleaning time this weekend! Conid's Bulkfiller Minimalistica has been a pleasant surprise for me, in terms of how easy it is to clean.

Cleaning Pens: Meditative, or Just Annoying?

February 20, 2016

Which camp do you fall into? Of course, this refers to fountain pens. If you have to clean ink out of your rollerball, ballpoint, or gel pen, it's probably because something very, very bad happened. But pen maintenance is an essential part of fountain pen ownership. You have to do it, and to the extent you can, you should learn to love it. Do I? Sort of.

Pen cleaning is one of those things people do either (1) all the time, such as, after they finish every fill of ink; (2) semi-regularly, such as whenever they change colors or every 1-2 months; or (3) whenever the pen clogs up and stops writing. I'm squarely in the second category. I don't find cleaning pens to be torture, per se (unless it's one of the rare occasions I've been using some sort of Noodler's permanent ink), but it's not something I necessarily look forward to.

I'll walk through the various categories of pens that I clean on a regular basis, from what I consider to be the least difficult to the extremely aggravating, and provide my perspective on which of the various filling systems are easiest to maintain. While the basic principle is the same for all--flush the pen with water--each system has its own peculiarities and quirks that need to be taken into account.

Syringe Fillers. Say what you will about Conid's Bulkfiller system being hard to get the hang of. Once you do, these pens are a snap to clean. It's like using a built-in bulb syringe (see below). Because the pen has such a large ink capacity, it's capable of pushing a large amount of water through the nib, reducing the number of times you have to flush it. If the pen's clogged, or if you've used an ink that's extremely difficult to clean out, you may have to disassemble the pen, but most syringe fillers have a small number of moving parts, and Conid even provides you with tools and instructions.

Cartridge/Converter. I have a growing appreciation for cartridge/converter pens because of how simple it is to clean and maintain them. While you technically don't need any special equipment, and can just use the converter to flush water through the feed and section several times, a bulb syringe and an ultrasonic cleaner allow you to thoroughly clean your pen quickly. For me, one of the best features of the cartridge/converter system is that you don't actually have to worry about cleaning the entire pen. Typically, the only part of the pen that touches any ink is the nib section and the converter (though I would recommend occasionally cleaning out the interior of the cap).

Eyedropper. Some people are going to be puzzled at this one. How, they might ask, is an eyedropper filling system--where the entire barrel holds ink--more convenient than the piston filler? Because there are no moving parts, and all you have to do is drop the entire pen into the ultrasonic cleaner. (In the "after" photo below, there is still some blue-black residue in the barrel, which I will clean out with a q-tip if I decide to change colors.) While disassembling a pen takes time, you don't have to do it that often! Eyedroppers hold a ton of ink, and if you use a low-maintenance ink and don't feel compelled to change colors, well, you can go a long time without cleaning that pen!

Piston Filler. Some piston-filling pens are easier than others to clean. Pilot's Custom Heritage 92 is a snap (because the piston is highly efficient and works well), and the clear TWSBI demonstrators are also somewhat convenient because they are transparent and relatively easy to disassemble if necessary. At the end of the day, however most piston-filling pens simply take a long time to flush out all the ink, and I often worry whether that repeated flushing is good for the piston mechanism. I've had particular difficulty cleaning my Montblanc 146 and my Pelikan M600, though the otherwise excellent Lamy 2000 can be a pain as well. On all three, I've noticed that the piston mechanisms have loosened up over time, after many many cleanings.

Pilot's excellent Custom Heritage 92 is extremely easy to clean.  The piston is highly efficient, and as you can sort of see from this terrible photo, the piston fills the ink chamber to capacity, making it easier to flush out the pen. — Pilot's excellent Custom Heritage 92 is extremely easy to clean. The piston is highly efficient, and as you can sort of see from this terrible photo, the piston fills the ink chamber to capacity, making it easier to flush out the pen.

Sac-Filling Pens (Lever and button Fillers). Flush these pens with water until it runs clear. I have these pens listed pretty far down on the convenience list because sacs tend to accumulate ink residue inside them, and it's generally impossible to have any visibility into what's going on inside the pen because they aren't made to be disassembled on a regular basis. I very rarely use anything other than a "safe" blue or black ink in a pen that fills using a sac.

Vac-Fillers. And then, we come to the end. I love the mechanics of a good vac-filling system, whether it be the classic Parker Vacumatic and the Edison Menlo. I absolutely hate cleaning them. After much experimentation, I have scientifically determined that it is physically impossible to get all of the ink residue out of a Parker Vacumatic. No, not really, but it takes so long, and involves so much repeated filling/emptying the pen with water, that I've given up on regularly changing the inks that I use in these pens and stick to "safe blue" or "safe black". To illustrate how much effort (and ingenuity) it takes to clean these things thoroughly, check out this article by Ron Zorn, who built a centrifuge out of a salad spinner. (Yes, really.) In all fairness, the Vacumatic filling system is the product of a time period when most people used three colors of ink (blue, black, and blue/black), so this probably wasn't an issue back then. (See note below: a "vac-fill" pen is a pump filler, distinct from the "vacuum-fillers" made by TWSBI and Pilot. For a demonstration on how a "vac-fill" pen works, see Brian Gray's video.)

As you can probably tell, this post isn't intended to be a comprehensive, "how-to" guide on cleaning pens (though that may not be a bad idea in the future). I mainly wanted to provide my thoughts on how easy/difficult I've found certain filling systems to maintain, since it's such an important part of pen ownership. Opinions may differ. But if I could provide you with one "semi-pro tip", it would be:

Buy An Ultrasonic Cleaner. I was once a skeptic, but about a year ago I purchased one at Bed, Bath & Beyond on a lark and I've since become a convert. You can get these things really cheap (even cheaper if you have one of those ubiquitous BBB 20% off coupons). The ultrasonic cleaner is great for cleaning ink out of the nooks and crannies of feeds and nib sections, and saves your fingers a lot of repeated flushing. If you use a lot of red ink, like I do, the ultrasonic is a lifesaver, because reds can be notoriously difficult to flush.

Note: I don't have a ton of experience with vacuum-fillers such as the Pilot Custom 823, TWSBI Vac 700, or the TWSBI Vac Mini, at least not yet. I've recently picked up a Vac Mini, and plan on having my thoughts on the pen up on the blog soon. I expect that in terms of ease-of-cleaning, these pens will probably fall somewhere between a piston filler and a vac-fill.

Ink Mixing: Putting Unused Colors to Work

May 7, 2015

We’ve all done it: Gone and splurged on a bottle of ink (or five) from Goulet or Jetpens, only to get it home and think, “mehhh?” Often the color’s not necessarily bad, but it’s not not exactly what you were looking for, so the bottle of ink sits unused and neglected in a drawer somewhere.

What to do? There’s always eBay, the FPN or FPGeeks classifieds section, or you could work out a trade in the Pen Addict Slack Channel (or at a pen show!), but what if there are no takers? Consider mixing the ink! With a touch of creativity, a syringe, a steady hand, and a slight tolerance for making a mess, you could have a completely new ink in minutes.

Warning: while you are engaged in ink mixing, avoid carpets, pets with light-colored fur, and your non-pen obsessed significant other. With regard to the latter, it’s probably best that they don’t come home to find you hunched over the sink with a syringe in one hand and an “ink vial” in the other. Trust me.

I recommend leaving your "kit" at home and not mixing inks at work.  Unless you are really tight with H.R. and have enough credibility to explain this one. — I recommend leaving your "kit" at home and not mixing inks at work. Unless you are really tight with H.R. and have enough credibility to explain this one.

Full disclosure: I’m an ink mixing novice. I present to you the product of my first effort: a mix of 4 parts Sheaffer Skrip Red and one part Aurora Black. I like the result, though next time I might try to go with a bit less black. I was going for a deep maroon (sort of like Diamine Oxblood), but it ended up just a shade too dark.

I was pleased enough with the result of this mixing effort to use the whole ink vial.  There were no adverse effects from mixing these two inks:  It dried quickly and didn't bleed. — I was pleased enough with the result of this mixing effort to use the whole ink vial. There were no adverse effects from mixing these two inks: It dried quickly and didn't bleed.

Tips for mixing ink:

If possible, only mix inks of the same brand. You can break this rule, as I obviously have here, but it involves a certain degree of risk since different ink companies might use different dyes, etc., that could react adversely to one another.
If you must break this rule and mix between inks (hey, I didn’t have any black Skrip), stick to “basic” or “safe” inks. (i.e., mix Waterman and Skrip, Aurora and Skrip, etc.) Don’t mix “boutique” inks (such as Noodler’s, Organics, Private Reserve, or Levenger) with anything other than their own brands. Even then, only mix within their “families”. For example, don’t for the love of God mix any of the Noodler’s Baystate inks with anything other than another Baystate Ink. Nathan Tardiff himself has stated that you shouldn’t do this, because it will cause an adverse chemical reaction and clog pens. Also, mixing a Noodler’s bulletproof ink with another non-bulletproof ink may cause the resulting mixture to be “not-bulletproof”.
Most importantly, go slowly, and mix in small batches. I like to mix using an ink syringe and a small ink sample vial. The vials are marked with measurements up to 5ml on the side (enough approximately 5 fills in a cartridge converter pen). The grading helps you to determine the appropriate proportions. Once you find a mix/color that you like, then you can make a larger batch.

All you really need to mix inks are a syringe or a pipette (I find the syringe to be easier and more precise), ink, and a container to hold the result of your experiment. I repurposed an old ink sample vial during the "experimental" phase, but when I go to mix a big batch of my red-black I am probably going to use one of the smaller Nalgene containers for storage. A lot of people also use the Nalgenes for travel when they don't want to carry a full bottle of ink with them. A wide variety of sizes are available.

Disclaimer: Mix inks at your own risk! Assume that the result of your concoctions might harm a pen, and test them in less valuable writers before inking up that prized vintage Vac.

Why do I go to flea markets whenever I can?  Because you never know what you will find.  Today, an early 1920s Sheaffer flat-top and two bullet pencils.  The one on the left received a new eraser from me. — Why do I go to flea markets whenever I can? Because you never know what you will find. Today, an early 1920s Sheaffer flat-top and two bullet pencils. The one on the left received a new eraser from me.

Vintage Pen Primer, Part I

February 28, 2015

One common question I get from readers is “how do I go about purchasing a vintage fountain pen, if I'm just getting into collecting?” It’s a difficult question: there’s no per se right or wrong way to do it, and the reality is that it’s a trial-and-error process that I’m still learning myself. But here are a few thoughts to make your vintage pen buying experience as enjoyable as possible.

Do your research. From the time they hit the mainstream in the early 1900s until the 1970s, fountain pens were a commodity item. There are dozens of brands of vintage pens out there floating around. The pen forums (FPN, FPGeeks, FPBoard) are invaluable sources of information on vintage pen brands and all aspects of repair, use, collectibility, etc. Books, such as Andreas Lambrou's "Fountain Pens of the World", are also helpful, especially when they have good pictures. Once you know what interests you, check out the trading forums and their online classifieds sections to get a sense of the appropriate price range for the pen you have in mind. Prices will vary, but doing a survey of pens for sale online will give you a rough idea so that you don’t overpay too much. See my “Reference Links” page on this blog for some additional sources of free information.

Don’t spend a lot of money starting out. I understand this concept is completely subjective, and varies from person to person, but the point is to not spend more than you can afford to lose until you figure out what you are doing. For a lot of people, vintage Esterbrooks are a good place to start. Esties can run anywhere from $15 or less on eBay (unrestored) to $50-60 from a reputable pen restorer. The good thing about Esties is that they are fairly easy to restore to writing condition, so your odds of getting a bum pen are fairly low. Given how durable Esties are, you also shouldn’t have any qualms about using them as a daily writer.

Three Esterbrooks, from top:  Blue "J", Red "J", and Dollar Pen.  I bought all of these pens as parts of lots on eBay, and restored them myself.  Lever filler pens, which fill using a pressure bar and an ink sac, are inexpensive repai… — Three Esterbrooks, from top: Blue "J", Red "J", and Dollar Pen. I bought all of these pens as parts of lots on eBay, and restored them myself. Lever filler pens, which fill using a pressure bar and an ink sac, are inexpensive repairs and can be done at home once you make a small investment in supplies. If you are interested in starting a larger collection, it's worth learning this skill.

If you absolutely must have that Parker Duofold, Vacumatic, or 51 as your first foray into vintage pens, purchase from a reputable vintage pen retailer or go to a pen show where you can inspect the pen in person. Many pens sold on eBay are unrestored and/or damaged in some way, and are therefore not in working order. I would advise you not to purchase an expensive vintage pen off of eBay unless you are relatively certain the pen is not a fake and you (1) are willing to pay extra money to have the pen professionally restored ($20-$75 on average, depending on what needs to be done); or (2) know for sure that the seller is a reputable vintage pen dealer and/or restorer. While the pens mentioned above are generally very durable and can be used as daily writers (especially the Parker Vac and the Parker 51), they require a certain level of experience/competence to restore correctly, and a botched restoration job could mean you end up with a massive ink leak in the middle of that important work meeting. This has happened to me. Also, vintage pens typically hold a LOT of ink—much more than the modern cartridge/converter filler—so spills can be “spectacular”.

The Parker 51 (at bottom) and the Parker Vacumatic (top) are among the most collected vintage pens.  Both make excellent daily writers, if restored correctly, but buyer beware if you go to eBay. — The Parker 51 (at bottom) and the Parker Vacumatic (top) are among the most collected vintage pens. Both make excellent daily writers, if restored correctly, but buyer beware if you go to eBay.

Buy “user grade” pens, at least to start. To me, “user grade” means a pen that is in respectable condition, but isn’t an immaculate, mint-condition “collector’s piece” where you will destroy the value of the pen by inking it up and using it. To this day, I don’t buy pens that I wouldn’t feel comfortable using. Even though I have some pens that I wouldn't carry around in my pocket, everything in my collection can be used to work at my desk. Writing with a vintage pen is part of the fun; it’s difficult to get a sense of which pens “speak to you” without being able to write with them. Buying "user grade" also keeps the price down.

Accept that you will get burned at least once, but probably a few times. I don’t view this as being cynical so much as realistic. As with the market for any antique or collectible, there are unscrupulous people out there looking to rip off newbies and capitalize on rising prices as good vintage pens become more scarce. There are also a lot of honest people out there who simply don’t know what the hell they are doing. You can purchase a pen that appears competently restored, only to discover later (typically, the hard way) that you were wrong. I’ve also come across people at flea markets trying to sell off-brand pens like “Majestic” or “Wearever” for $100 or more, when the value of such pens rarely, if ever, exceeds $20 restored. Despite your best efforts, if you trade or buy enough, you eventually will spend money on a pen that wasn’t worth it. It happens to us all. Accept it and move on.

Temper your expectations. Vintage pens are antiques, often 75-100 years old. They can seem as usable as they were the day they were made (and often, they are), but people still tend to expect too much. Even the best-restored vintage pen may have the occasional hiccup. For example, the most common issues I run into involve temperature and air pressure fluctuation. If the temperature changes rapidly (such as when going from a cold car to a warm office), the pen may burp ink. Likewise, don’t carry filled vintage pens on an airplane unless you want a mess when you uncap the pen. Learn to accept that this is part of the fun, and doesn’t necessarily mean your pen is defective. As much as we all love fountain pens, they were never perfect technology. There was a reason the pen companies started developing ballpoints.

Consider collecting what I refer to as “new vintage.” One personal area of interest is Waterman pens from the 1980s and 1990s. These pens are sturdy cartridge/converter fillers, and therefore have the same “advantages” as modern pens. Because they are still relatively common, you often can find new old stock or mint condition pens for very reasonable prices. And, because these pens often don’t need restoration beyond a good polishing and cleaning, there’s less risk incurred in the purchase. Waterman, Sheaffer, Parker, and others all produced very high quality writing instruments during this time frame.

I hope this has been helpful. Some of these may seem like “common sense” points, but they’re still worth keeping in mind if you're considering entering the vintage pen world. Take it from someone who's been there: in the heat of a pen show, or when presented with a spur-of-the-moment, can’t-pass-it-up “great deal,” common sense can go out the window. But at the end of the day, I love using my vintage pens, keep them inked up regularly, and am always looking to add to the collection. Over the next few weeks, I’ll be posting some reviews on specific vintage models, and will discuss different topics on collecting, use, and restoration.

Another shot at today's find in the Nashville Flea Market:  An early-1920s Shearer Flat-top.  This pen is definitely user-grade, but I'm still looking forward to restoring it to writing condition and using it at home. — Another shot at today's find in the Nashville Flea Market: An early-1920s Shearer Flat-top. This pen is definitely user-grade, but I'm still looking forward to restoring it to writing condition and using it at home.